Friday, March 30, 2012

Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Arizona

After leaving Winslow, I drove up to Canyon de Chelly National Monument in northern Arizona. The canyon lies within the Navajo reservation and the campsite there is free although there is talk of fees being added in the future. My humble campsite sits underneath the barren Cottonwood trees.
This little lizard is only about 2 inches long at the most and was showing off his muscles for me!
"To touch the soul of another human being is to walk on holy ground." Stephen Covey
Very old petroglyphs carved into the rock you see below. These etchings of two riders hunting deer were done by Navajo natives.
One morning I joined a Ranger led group down into Tunnel Canyon. The Canyon is home to many Navajo who currently live in the canyon without running water or electricity. The canyon is sacred to the Navajo and the only way to see it is with a Native guide or a Ranger. The one exception is the trail down to the White House ruins.
Part of our group crossing the stream that flows at the bottom of the canyon. Most of our hike was done in our bare feet through ice cold water and warm red sand.
That would be me, delighted to have joined this Ranger led hike into the canyon. I met the nicest people on the hike and felt honored to have "touched their souls."
Ancient ruins from the Ancestral Puebloans are found throughout the canyon. When the Navajo arrived in the canyon, they did not touch the ruins as it is against their culture.
Mama and baby, roaming free in the canyon. Most of the Native Americans in this area do not fence in their horses or livestock. I got used to seeing horses walking up and down the street, herds of sheep and goats grazing on the roadside but it did shock me when a Navajo cowboy came charging down the street on his horse while herding his cattle in and out of the oncoming cars. Very different.
There are beautiful farms throughout the canyon, each with a traditional six sided hogan next to the house.
I met this Navajo man at the campsite and spent the evening listening to him tell very interesting stories. It was strange as his name is Gilbert Jumbo and mine is Susan Little! He told me everything from Navajo culture, healing ceremonies and the Native American church to his life on the reservation as an artist and teacher. Thank you Gilbert! I will miss you.
One morning I hiked down the trail to the White House Ruins; this is the view from the top of the trail! Now don't you want to go there?


The White House ruins were built by the Ancestral Puebloans, also known as the Anasazi. The first time I saw the ruins 7 years ago, I burst into tears. It was hard to comprehend my feelings as I stood in the same place where the Ancient Ones had lived and died. This time the impact was just as powerful, only in a different way. It was as if I was connected to them in some way.

The trail over to the ruins follows a muddy stream lined with Cottonwoods. The trees are just starting to bud and look silver gray against the orange cliffs. The NPS is in the process of removing all the non-native vegetation from the canyon which would include the Tamarisk and the Russian Olive, both invasive trees that tend to take over the environment. There are burned stumps all over the place, but soon it will be even better than before.



"Be still and the earth will speak to you." Navajo proverb

Spider Rock is a sandstone spire that rises 800 feet from the canyon floor. Navajo legend teaches that Spider Woman lives on top of the spire and that it was she who taught the Navajo how to weave.

I met Creg at the overlook for Spider Rock, where he stood for hours on end selling his hand carved petroglyph rocks. I bought the one he is holding, a carving of a healing hand.

Pretty little woodpecker in my campground!





On my way up to the canyon, I stopped in Bluff for coffee. I couldn't resist stopping at the Cloudwatcher Gallery and spent over an hour talking with the artist, JR Lancaster.

JR is a passionate artist who definitely thinks outside the box! I loved his work; very unique, eclectic and amazing. If you are ever in Bluff, Utah, stop in to his Cloudwatcher Gallery and see his incredible work.

Twin Rocks in Bluff, Arizona


Good night one and all!

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